The Penny Farthing 2005 Cabernet Franc:
Cabernet Franc done right is perhaps the most
elegant and profound of reds. As befits an elder
noble variety, it is more refined and graceful than
its brawny offspring, Cabernet Sauvignon. But
here is proof that California can offer rich fruit
and ample structure as well.
Prof. Pascal Ribereau-Gayon, who directed
the Faculty of Oenology at the University of
Bordeaux, once remarked that in Bordeaux,
Cabernet Franc is so refined that sometimes it
forgets to exist. Not so in California, heaven
knows! The nose of this Sierra Foothills vineyard
is defined around an aroma reminiscent of
elderberry preserves, intriguingly consorted by
scents of cinnamon, olive and aromatic cedar.
But in California, our challenge is to
balance this vine’s weed-like vigor, for which
limiting soil, careful attention to water balance
and no tillage cover crop were employed. There is
no trace of the dry tannin and green flavors that
mar this variety in circumstances of unmanaged
canopy and lifeless soil.
This wine will not always show itself in
precisely the same manner. Such capacity to
reflect and transform its environment is a
defining mark of nobility in fine wine. It loves
wild mushrooms, and would prefer herb-roasted
chicken or grilled veal over beefsteak.
Candlelight and music will only accentuate our
melancholy when it’s all gone.
Technical Notes:
| Appellation: |
California
|
| Production: |
502 Cases
|
| Alcohol: |
Adjusted to 13.5%
|
| Elevage: |
15 months in French oak imparted
nuances of spice, toffee and chocolate |